Wandering our way to Okayama
We spent almost eight hours in Nobuyuki-san's truck, the last few hours hiding like fugitives behind a curtain in the truck while he dropped off his various loads. He vibrantly told us stories about pachinko, about his life as a trucker, about his wife, two kids, and his newborn baby. At about 9 pm he drove us over to the part of town where our friend Maria's aunt lives, and after some phone wrestling/direction giving/sudden switches from Hiroshima-ben to super polite Japanese, we found a meeting place where she could pick us up. Nobuyuki waited with us until she came, and meanwhile he bought us tea and we loaded him with anything presentable in our bags- ie candy and coffee from the States. Then Maria's aunt came bearing the cake she had got for us, and we all insisted that he take it. (He told us later he gave the cake and coffee to his wife and kids, and they were really happy) What a wonderful Christmas Eve! (We had to periodically remind ourselves that it WAS Christmas Eve).
We then spent an hour in the local sento, soaking in all the baths and being a bit harangued by a cultish seeming woman who followed us from bath to bath. My wisdom from this day: It's much easier to deal with all sorts of odd people when you're not both naked. Beware of clingy uncomfortable people in the baths.