Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Day 2: Kyoto to Okayama, vaguely.

Day 2:
Wandering our way to Okayama


In the morning, we awoke to the most amazing view (lucky guy!) from his balcony.
Andres fed us bananas and made us Colombian coffee from his stash, which was actually from his uncle's farm, and we all ate granola from our ukulele bag stash of travel food.

Then we headed back to the parking area where we had been dropped off the day before, and were very energetic and musical as we walked through the rather quiet neighborhood. Real old traveling musicians, we are.
We caught our first right towards Okayama with a cute young couple who were watching Kiki's Delivery Service on their Navi, and having a friendly argument about whether or not Tombo was an ideal guy. They dropped us off down the road and we were picked up next by a mother and daughter who were on the way back from the daughter's figure skating competition, and whom were the beginning of a day full of silly mistakes. They dropped us off not at a service area, but on the side of a bypass in Ashiya (where I will never go again) near Kobe, where it was absolutely impossible to catch a new ride. After nearly getting run over trying to hitch there, we took a train down the road a bit to a place where it looked like we could walk to the service area from the station. The whole time we were on the train, a foreign man sat in front of us, staring blatantly while eating boiled eggs from a huge bag full of them. Weird. Anyway, when we got off the train, we first learned how decieving maps can be. Sure, the service station was pretty close- had there not been a mountain in the way. A very kind man, who we dubbed "Pineapple Guy" actually went out of his way and made himself late to work to drive us onto the expressway and drop us at the service area, giving us his card and making us promise to phone him when we got to Okayama to let him know we were okay. He's the only ride we don't have a photo of! Sad!)
We then got a ride up the road a bit with two truckers who were driving a normal car. ...and then we found our most fantastical ride of all: Nobuyuki, trucker from Hiroshima.

We spent almost eight hours in Nobuyuki-san's truck, the last few hours hiding like fugitives behind a curtain in the truck while he dropped off his various loads. He vibrantly told us stories about pachinko, about his life as a trucker, about his wife, two kids, and his newborn baby. At about 9 pm he drove us over to the part of town where our friend Maria's aunt lives, and after some phone wrestling/direction giving/sudden switches from Hiroshima-ben to super polite Japanese, we found a meeting place where she could pick us up. Nobuyuki waited with us until she came, and meanwhile he bought us tea and we loaded him with anything presentable in our bags- ie candy and coffee from the States. Then Maria's aunt came bearing the cake she had got for us, and we all insisted that he take it. (He told us later he gave the cake and coffee to his wife and kids, and they were really happy) What a wonderful Christmas Eve! (We had to periodically remind ourselves that it WAS Christmas Eve).

We then spent an hour in the local sento, soaking in all the baths and being a bit harangued by a cultish seeming woman who followed us from bath to bath. My wisdom from this day: It's much easier to deal with all sorts of odd people when you're not both naked. Beware of clingy uncomfortable people in the baths.

Dec. 23rd, Day 1: I can't believe we're actually doing this!

Day 1


Goal: To get from Tokyo Inter (in Yoga) to Kyoto city by evening, hitchhiking.


6:30 am, Tuesday morning, after a previously gruelling day of school, papers, and preperation, we are ready to set off on our big adventure, armed with musical instruments, Baileys, and bananas.


Looking like relatively clean hobos with out winter clothes and giant backpacks and various other bags, we took the train to Yoga station, where we planned to walk to the main intersection in Tokyo, Tokyo Inter, to pick up a ride. We were first slightly set back by the fact that upon reaching the expressway, it was way above us, and there were no entrance ramps in sight. So after walking about 20 minutes in the wrong direction and realising that the road was never going to come down to meet us, we got directions from a convenient store and righted ourselves. We positioned ourselves at the corner of the intersection with our 京都方面 "Direction of Kyoto" sign and thumbs at the ready, giggling like little kids and trying not to be mortally embarrassed. After a while of this not working, we decided to change the sign to "Direction of a Service Area" just to get us the hell out of Tokyo. 40 minutes from our start, a white van containing a family of three pulled over for us! We were totally floored, we couldn't believe we had gotten our first ride, and so quickly, and at Tokyo INTER none the less! The family was heading to Izu, and after buying us Taiyaki, dropped us off at a service area before the turnoff for Izu. They were lovely people, and actually tried to find us our next ride for us, despite our protests.


They eventually commandeered the poor guys whom we asked to take our photo together to take us to another service area. These guys, whom call Baba and Numa, were on their way to a karate tournament down the road- Numa turned out to be the champion boxer of Japan! They gave us macadamia chocolates and christened us よ・コリン and determined that this should also be the name of our band (but we decided to stick with our original name).



After they dropped us off, we found a ride with a lady on her way to work in Shizuoka city- this whole drive we had the sea on our left and Mt. Fuji on our right, it was downright magical.



The next ride was with a wonderful woman who was driving to a place a bit before Hamamatsu, with her husband, who seemed to have some kind of mental disorder or disease and kept asking the same questions over and over, bless him. She was wonderful, and actually took us to the Hamamatsu service area, which was about 20 minutes after she actually needed to get off the expressway.

At the service area in Hamamatsu, first we had a break for refreshments (a weird cross between our delusion that we were in Lord of the Rings, and being semi-alchoholics)



And then we decided to try a new tactic; safety pinning the Kyoto sign onto my backpack and walking around the parking lot looking for Kyoto license plates (this last bit on the advice of Baba and Numa).

Here we had our first adventure with trucks. As we wandered around the parking lot, we heard someone honking at us, and turned to see a man in a truck motioning us over. Fearing he was going to tell us off for hitchhiking, we approached him cautiously; but it turns out he was on his way to Wakayama and was happy to give us a ride for the last 3 whole hours to Kyoto! He didn't talk much, but he told us about his daughters, who used to go on rides with him in the truck but were now too old, and then he bought us takoyaki and coffees and actually let us choose which route we wanted to take to Kyoto; sea or mountains. We chose sea and were rewarded by this view!


Upon arrival in Kusatsu, near Kyoto, we walked into the city of Kusatsu (guided by a kind jogger with a distinct Kansai accent, upon hearing which it dawned on Yuriko that we had actually left Kanto) and met our Couchsurfing host for the evening, a lovely Colombian guy named Andres, for Indian food.
There were so many Christmas lights! Yuriko was like a moth to them. But this flamingo was especially tacky, as Andres affirmed.
Andres was a wonderful host; he made us mate in the traditional manner, metal straw and all, and we sang our songs for him with the ukulele and watched a super cute movie.

Saturday, December 27, 2008

Hitching Honshu

Weeeell this is a long overdue update to our glorious adventure through southern Japan. We are now in Kyoto, on the backward curve of our journey, heading back north in the vague direction of Tokyo (although I have no real desire to wind up back there). So far we have had 14 rides, hitched the whole way, spent christmas playing music in a pub, not been in any way attacked or uncomfortable (except for one mildly unsettling toothless trucker), and now have a good friend who is a 40 year old trucker with a strong Hiroshima accent (which I can't understand), loves pachinko, and who now contacts us every day with updates on good places to pick up trucks. He is a lovely man, and we gave him a cake. We've couchsurfed, stayed with the auntie of a friend, a hostel, and are now spending the night in a manga kisa with unlimited yummy drinks that will probably keep me up running to the bathroom all night. Matcha ole! We've had various other entertaining experiences, mostly to do with bathing, which include having to cram two of us in a tiny shower, going to sento (public bath) and getting accosted by a women who we believe was in a cult, and going to an onsen/sento and getting into a bath with electric currents running through it (yikes!) and a bright purple one that smelled like blueberries.
Also, Hiroshima is amazing! We went out to Miyajima and discovered Kuukai's temple, went hiking and got nibbled on by deer, ate dango and took photos of the big tori gate at sunset. What an unbelievable place. Also, there is a lovely bar there called Mac which plays the best music, and we made friends with one of the bartenders, she came to our gig at the Irish pub as well.
We are now spending the night in a manga cafe, reading comics and watching movies and working out our plan to get to Gifu tomorrow, then back to Tokyo the next day! I will update with the whole story of all of our crazy rides when we get the pictures uploaded, because it's much more entertaining that way!

Monday, December 22, 2008

The Newest Journey of a Scarf Brigader, with cohort!

Well, it's time for the next adventure of the eastern world, starring a scarf brigader and her fellow kimono crusader! Tomorrow we will begin a journey south, our goal being to hitchhike from Tokyo all the way to Hiroshima by Christmas day to play a show. The first leg of the trip will be tomorrow, the 23rd, and will consist of trying to get our asses out of this huge crazy city and all the way to Kyoto. Today went to get the finishing touches on our journey gear, a bottle of whiskey and a small bottle of Baileys, to keep us warm while we go! We're taking instruments along, so this promises to be a musical journey (hopefully we won't get thrown out of any cars due to our singing).
Will post updates and photos along the way!